As the clock struck midnight on January 1, 2025, Caitlin Berquist found herself gazing out at an endless expanse of barren, dry earth under the Antarctic sun, with no darkness to mark the transition between night and day.
Welcome to Taylor Valley, part of Antarctica’s McMurdo Dry Valleys – a stark landscape that defies our typical image of the southernmost continent. Here, there are no vast snow fields or colonies of penguins waddling across the ice. The only reminders of the animal world are mummified remains of lost wanderers – penguins and seals preserved for years by the valley’s unique, arid climate.
Although the setting may sound a little eerie, the 2024 BLAKE Ambassador says 45 days in this unique environment, which is an invaluable location for carrying out climate change research, was the most amazing experience she’s ever had.
“It truly was the time of my life. I’ll never forget it,” she reflects, still trying to process the magnitude of spending six weeks in one of Earth’s most extreme environments.
The Ambassadorship
Caitlin has come a long way since her childhood wandering the beaches of Whakatāne and contemplating why the dune erosion was seemingly speeding up, and the landscape looked different after every storm.
The 21-year-old University of Waikato student and former Whakatāne High School student was selected for the ambassadorship in September 2024 and flew to join an international team of scientists at Scott Base in December before flying into Taylor Valley.
“Looking down from that helicopter flight at the Taylor Valley surrounds was possibly my favorite memory. I think it was when I began to realize the enormity of what I was getting myself into, picturing the weeks ahead where this would be my life,” she recalls.
The McMurdo Dry Valleys are the largest ice-free area of the continent and hold precious records of past climate and the evolution of Antarctica’s ice sheets.
“Everyone pictures miles of snow and being surrounded by seals and penguins. But the dry valleys are so different. The only living things I saw there were a couple of mosses and algae mats. I also counted two mummified penguins and 24 mummified seals – some were incredibly well preserved.”
Right from the beginning, Caitlin felt huge admiration for the team around her, scientists mainly from Italy and New Zealand who were incredibly passionate about their field work.
“The research projects themselves were fascinating. We started with a seismic experiment which we left running for the majority of our time in the valley. This involved burying micro seismometers into the ground at exact locations specified by a differential GPS,” she explains.
“Once this experiment was left to run, we were able to move into soil-gas research, lead largely by the Italian crew. This part of the research involved measuring and sampling of anomalous areas from previous data collected. Steel probes were used to collect gas samples from within the soil and to conduct a range of measurements on site. Soil gas flux was another parameter measured, using a flux meter, and soil thermal properties were also studied at sites of interest,” she continued.
The quest to understand Earth’s processes requires teamwork and patience, with collected samples then packaged up for laboratories to be studied further. While some days there was plenty to do, other days there was downtime. The setting up of projects was important, and there was much to learn about methods to get the most accurate sampling.
Amid the adventure and novelty, she experienced a profound realization about the significance of the trip.
“It’s easy to forget the scale of research you’re helping with. Realising that I can be part of finding answers and solutions has been powerful. Knowing that there is such expertise and depth in the research field gives me immense hope,” she explains.
“It’s groundbreaking and important work, and communicating our experience and findings is equally crucial. I began to piece together how serious these projects were, especially how thawing permafrost connects to our broader research goals.”
She is thankful for the strong bonds formed across the diverse team, including with former BLAKE Ambassadors Lucy Davidson and Jack Beagly. Billy Wallace, their field safety trainer, who kept them alive both spiritually and physically. NZ scientists Jocelyn Turnbull, Chris Moy, and Gary Wilson, who provided guidance, expertise and fresh faces on their deployment towards the end of the camp.
Photo // BLAKE Ambassadors past and present from left, Caitlin Berquist, Jack Beagly, and Lucy Davidson.
And, she notes a vital part of the team, the Italian scientists (Claudio Mazzoli, Alessandra Sciarria, Livio Ruggiero, Salomon Halemikael, and Fabio Florindo) who not only lead the science, but became renowned for their culinary magic, transforming limited ingredients into memorable meals.
Following the trip Caitlin posted to Instagram a fantastic summary below;
“I will never be able to express what these last 45 days have done for me. The opportunity to come here was one I never considered because I genuinely didn’t see how it would ever happen. I had the privilege of spending the last few weeks in the Taylor Valley, a place I now love with my whole heart. Doing work that I love with my whole heart. With people who I love with my whole heart. And wow, what a time it was.
